We both awoke to a freezing Livingstone morning at around 7:15am. The shower situation was at an all-time low as there was now no water at all. We used Ev’s facial wipes to try and bathe with. It didn’t work too well. We packed our bags, rolled up our beds and sleeping bags and loaded them onto the truck. We had a lovely campsite brekkie this morning made by our Tour Leaders, Johannes and Shawn, which consisted of bread, scrambled eggs, chilli baked beans and sausage. It really hit the spot. This was also the first time we met Jo and Amanda who were teachers from England and were travelling together. Amanda was actually Canadian. As we ate we took photos of the monkeys around the site and had to chase a few away trying to get into our belongings. After breakfast we packed up our tents and loaded all of the gear onto the truck in preparation for our first trip of the tour. Dan also got mobile reception for the first time since we had been in Zimbabwe/Zambia and quickly called Citibank to make sure he was able to use his credit card worldwide in case of emergencies.
Botswana Visas
We hopped onto the truck and were away. In total we drove about 300-400km. After about an hour of driving we reached the Zambia/Botswana border. We reached customs and filled out our paperwork. Johannes warned us not to take any photos in and around the customs area on the Zambian side of the Zambezi River otherwise we could risk being shot. We would have to wait until we were on the ferry before we were allowed to do so. While we were waiting outside for the rest of the group to clear customs, we were harassed by a very persistent vendor selling magnetic copper bracelets which are meant to help with arthritis. No amount of "No thank you's" would make him leave. Finally he conceded that none of us were interested.
After clearing customs the group walked to the ferry to cross the Zambezi River into Botswana. The truck was on a separate barge. The ferry ride itself took about 5 minutes and whilst on board we took the opening to take some photos without fear of being gunned down. We then walked to the Botswana immigration office to get a 5 day Visa. As we waited for the truck we saw some goats trying to climb a 6 foot high fence to grass on the other side. Bit weird but they looked pretty hungry.
To prevent/control Foot and Mouth Disease in Botswana, we had to disinfect the shoes we wore in Zambia, including our spare shoes. We stood onto a pad with a chemical agent through it which would kill off any parasites and hosts of the disease. As well as shoes, all vehicles were also required to drive through a ditch about half a wheel deep with the same solution and purpose.
Now that we were safely in Botswana, we again boarded the truck and drove towards the town of Chobe, for lunch. Just before we got there we were stopped by a brand new (and the only) set of traffic lights. Despite there being no traffic or pedestrians, we waited a good couple of minutes for the lights to change. (and we thought the traffic lights back home were bad!) We got into Chobe at 11:40am and were given until 1pm to grab lunch and roam the town. We withdrew 200 Pula, which is about $30USD then headed to a takeaway shop and bought some delicious chicken and beef pastries for 21 Pula ($3USD). We then headed to the local supermarket called SPAR, found all over southern Africa, to find a magnet and to get some supplies. You know the essentials: oreos, peanuts, chips etc. Ev even bought some booze. A Pina Colada pre mixed drink and a small bottle of Rose. We were unable to find a magnet from SPAR but bought some postcards from the post office and used the internet, briefly. Poor old Russell wasn’t able to get much done in his lunch hour as he was stuck in line at the currency exchange office and then the bank.
Lunch was over and we were back on the truck on the way to Elephant Sands. Ironically, we saw a herd of elephants on the side of the road and took some photos. We saw another heard walking in single file about 500m away from us and saw a male Kudu. We also took photos of some giraffes feeding on trees on the side of the road. We stopped for another checkpoint for Foot and Mouth disease.
Botswana itself seemed to be a little more affluent by central African standards compared to Zambia. In Chobe, which is a very small town, they had a supermarket, brand name clothing stores like Reebok and Nike and an internet cafe. That may be a bit harsh because we’ve only seen one town in Zambia but the difference between the two was obvious.
Elephant Sands
As the name would suggest, Elephant Sands is a large camping/caravan resort area covered completed by white sand, trees, bushland and inhabited by elephants. The place was wonderful. The road into Elephant Sands though wasn’t so great. The sandy road was incredibly bumpy and the many ditches tested the trucks suspension. We were flung around the truck as we had no choice but to go as fast as possible to avoid getting bogged. Unfortunately the sand won and we were forced to get out and push. We were bogged a second time but thankfully the sites rescue trucks were on the scene and when we made it to the camping area we set up our tents for the evening and unloaded our gear from the truck. There was a bar/restaurant, pool and an open air outdoor toilet/shower complex with bamboo walls which used bore water.
We headed towards the bar area and thankfully a power board was available so we could charge the computer, video camera and phone. Access to mains power was becoming increasingly difficult to come by. Russell and Dan decided to go for a swim but unfortunately found it full of dirt with dead insects floating by. We had a footbath instead. We chatted with Russ for about an hour by the pool as the sun set. The campfire nearby looked very inviting and warm. Just as the sun slipped past the horizon, a herd of female kudu came to the waterhole about 50 metres away. It was another great photo opportunity.
On that note, we felt it was time for a few sundowners. Ev drank her Rose and Dan started a tab at the bar and actually drank beer. He had a couple of Castle Lagers, which actually tasted quite nice. The mood of the evening helped them go down easier. Russell joined us at the table shortly after and we started talking about our trip and the trips to South America he had been on.
Elephant Visit by the Pool
Shortly after dark at 7pm the conversation turned to our elephant ride the day before and Dan glanced to his left and to his astonishment saw a family of 3 elephants, Father, Mother and Baby, enjoying a refreshing drink out of the pool less than 20 metres away from where we were sitting. It was an incredibly surreal experience. Unfortunately it was too dark to get any photos as we were told not use a flash as it would scare them off, but Dan did manage to get a bit of audio from his iPhone in a vein attempt to capture the moment on film. Everyone in the bar/restaurant watched in quiet awe as the family of elephants drank from the pool for about 3-4 minutes (now we knew why the pool wasn’t kept clean). The baby hung around a little longer for an extended drink whilst the parents watched and waited. The baby pulled its trunk from the water and flung its body around towards its parents then ran off the cement to the dirt then together they walked back into the bushland. It felt like a privilege to be a witness.
Dinner
Shortly after, the dinner bell rang and we moved towards the dining hall. We were having a buffet dinner and on the menu there was pat (a flour and water mix that looks like potato), beans, rice, veggies, bread rolls and the main course, Impala Stew. The Impala was very tender and very tasty. Dessert was fruit salad, jelly and custard. While we ate, we got to know our tour leaders, Shawn and Johannes a little better. They are great guys. We spoke with them about life in Africa and they were also keen to learn more about Australian culture. Just before we headed off to bed, Johannes told the group we were leaving at 5am. It started to get a bit chilly, so we went back to the tents to get our jackets when Dan saw Johannes at the truck unrolling his bed. Dan asked if was serious about leaving at 5am. He was. We have about a 10-11 hour drive to reach the Polokwane Game Reserve in South Africa tomorrow. It was time for bed at 8:20pm.
Realising that we wouldn’t have time for a shower in the morning, we decided to have one before bed. The idea of an open shower under the stars on a beautifully clear night sounded very romantic. Unfortunately the chill had set in and the showers used bore water which was very salty. Any ideas of a long, warm, enjoyable shower together were quickly dashed. Ev was out in about 2 minutes, shivering cold and with sore eyes. Dan lasted maybe another 2 minutes. It sounded cool anyway.
As we headed back to the tent we couldn’t help but stop and stare at the night sky. We have never seen so many stars before and the Milky Way was clearly visible overhead. It was a perfect way to end an awesome evening.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/dan-ev/
 |
| Monkeys playing in the campsite |
Botswana Visas
We hopped onto the truck and were away. In total we drove about 300-400km. After about an hour of driving we reached the Zambia/Botswana border. We reached customs and filled out our paperwork. Johannes warned us not to take any photos in and around the customs area on the Zambian side of the Zambezi River otherwise we could risk being shot. We would have to wait until we were on the ferry before we were allowed to do so. While we were waiting outside for the rest of the group to clear customs, we were harassed by a very persistent vendor selling magnetic copper bracelets which are meant to help with arthritis. No amount of "No thank you's" would make him leave. Finally he conceded that none of us were interested.
After clearing customs the group walked to the ferry to cross the Zambezi River into Botswana. The truck was on a separate barge. The ferry ride itself took about 5 minutes and whilst on board we took the opening to take some photos without fear of being gunned down. We then walked to the Botswana immigration office to get a 5 day Visa. As we waited for the truck we saw some goats trying to climb a 6 foot high fence to grass on the other side. Bit weird but they looked pretty hungry.
To prevent/control Foot and Mouth Disease in Botswana, we had to disinfect the shoes we wore in Zambia, including our spare shoes. We stood onto a pad with a chemical agent through it which would kill off any parasites and hosts of the disease. As well as shoes, all vehicles were also required to drive through a ditch about half a wheel deep with the same solution and purpose.
 |
| Truck Pest Control Point |
Now that we were safely in Botswana, we again boarded the truck and drove towards the town of Chobe, for lunch. Just before we got there we were stopped by a brand new (and the only) set of traffic lights. Despite there being no traffic or pedestrians, we waited a good couple of minutes for the lights to change. (and we thought the traffic lights back home were bad!) We got into Chobe at 11:40am and were given until 1pm to grab lunch and roam the town. We withdrew 200 Pula, which is about $30USD then headed to a takeaway shop and bought some delicious chicken and beef pastries for 21 Pula ($3USD). We then headed to the local supermarket called SPAR, found all over southern Africa, to find a magnet and to get some supplies. You know the essentials: oreos, peanuts, chips etc. Ev even bought some booze. A Pina Colada pre mixed drink and a small bottle of Rose. We were unable to find a magnet from SPAR but bought some postcards from the post office and used the internet, briefly. Poor old Russell wasn’t able to get much done in his lunch hour as he was stuck in line at the currency exchange office and then the bank.
Lunch was over and we were back on the truck on the way to Elephant Sands. Ironically, we saw a herd of elephants on the side of the road and took some photos. We saw another heard walking in single file about 500m away from us and saw a male Kudu. We also took photos of some giraffes feeding on trees on the side of the road. We stopped for another checkpoint for Foot and Mouth disease.
 |
| Kudu |
 |
| Giraffe |
Botswana itself seemed to be a little more affluent by central African standards compared to Zambia. In Chobe, which is a very small town, they had a supermarket, brand name clothing stores like Reebok and Nike and an internet cafe. That may be a bit harsh because we’ve only seen one town in Zambia but the difference between the two was obvious.
Elephant Sands
As the name would suggest, Elephant Sands is a large camping/caravan resort area covered completed by white sand, trees, bushland and inhabited by elephants. The place was wonderful. The road into Elephant Sands though wasn’t so great. The sandy road was incredibly bumpy and the many ditches tested the trucks suspension. We were flung around the truck as we had no choice but to go as fast as possible to avoid getting bogged. Unfortunately the sand won and we were forced to get out and push. We were bogged a second time but thankfully the sites rescue trucks were on the scene and when we made it to the camping area we set up our tents for the evening and unloaded our gear from the truck. There was a bar/restaurant, pool and an open air outdoor toilet/shower complex with bamboo walls which used bore water.
 |
| Elephant Sands Kitchen |
We headed towards the bar area and thankfully a power board was available so we could charge the computer, video camera and phone. Access to mains power was becoming increasingly difficult to come by. Russell and Dan decided to go for a swim but unfortunately found it full of dirt with dead insects floating by. We had a footbath instead. We chatted with Russ for about an hour by the pool as the sun set. The campfire nearby looked very inviting and warm. Just as the sun slipped past the horizon, a herd of female kudu came to the waterhole about 50 metres away. It was another great photo opportunity.
 |
| Kudu |
On that note, we felt it was time for a few sundowners. Ev drank her Rose and Dan started a tab at the bar and actually drank beer. He had a couple of Castle Lagers, which actually tasted quite nice. The mood of the evening helped them go down easier. Russell joined us at the table shortly after and we started talking about our trip and the trips to South America he had been on.
Elephant Visit by the Pool
Shortly after dark at 7pm the conversation turned to our elephant ride the day before and Dan glanced to his left and to his astonishment saw a family of 3 elephants, Father, Mother and Baby, enjoying a refreshing drink out of the pool less than 20 metres away from where we were sitting. It was an incredibly surreal experience. Unfortunately it was too dark to get any photos as we were told not use a flash as it would scare them off, but Dan did manage to get a bit of audio from his iPhone in a vein attempt to capture the moment on film. Everyone in the bar/restaurant watched in quiet awe as the family of elephants drank from the pool for about 3-4 minutes (now we knew why the pool wasn’t kept clean). The baby hung around a little longer for an extended drink whilst the parents watched and waited. The baby pulled its trunk from the water and flung its body around towards its parents then ran off the cement to the dirt then together they walked back into the bushland. It felt like a privilege to be a witness.
Dinner
Shortly after, the dinner bell rang and we moved towards the dining hall. We were having a buffet dinner and on the menu there was pat (a flour and water mix that looks like potato), beans, rice, veggies, bread rolls and the main course, Impala Stew. The Impala was very tender and very tasty. Dessert was fruit salad, jelly and custard. While we ate, we got to know our tour leaders, Shawn and Johannes a little better. They are great guys. We spoke with them about life in Africa and they were also keen to learn more about Australian culture. Just before we headed off to bed, Johannes told the group we were leaving at 5am. It started to get a bit chilly, so we went back to the tents to get our jackets when Dan saw Johannes at the truck unrolling his bed. Dan asked if was serious about leaving at 5am. He was. We have about a 10-11 hour drive to reach the Polokwane Game Reserve in South Africa tomorrow. It was time for bed at 8:20pm.
Realising that we wouldn’t have time for a shower in the morning, we decided to have one before bed. The idea of an open shower under the stars on a beautifully clear night sounded very romantic. Unfortunately the chill had set in and the showers used bore water which was very salty. Any ideas of a long, warm, enjoyable shower together were quickly dashed. Ev was out in about 2 minutes, shivering cold and with sore eyes. Dan lasted maybe another 2 minutes. It sounded cool anyway.
As we headed back to the tent we couldn’t help but stop and stare at the night sky. We have never seen so many stars before and the Milky Way was clearly visible overhead. It was a perfect way to end an awesome evening.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/dan-ev/
1 comment:
Happy birthday Mrs Garrett from the other Mrs Garrett! I hope that hubby of yours spoils you that little extra today :-)
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